Don't Throw Away Seafood Roe: Turn It Into a Luxury Butter – Recipe

Apart from the breathtaking shores and wild shoreline, Jersey has a remarkable food culture, deeply rooted in its soil and sea. From world-famous Jersey Royal baby potatoes to shellfish sweeter and more tender than those found anywhere else, the island's bounty is second to none. What thrills me above all, however, is how local farmers and growers are embracing regenerative farming, while in doing so reinventing the island's food future with innovation and dedication.

Last month, I had the privilege to host a talk at a gathering, and cook a welcome dinner for the participants, alongside an inspiring founder. Naturally, the shellfish were a must on my spread, because they represent Jersey at its finest: subtle, plump and bursting of the ocean.

These mollusks seem to me the ultimate embodiment of the island's food future: sweet, plump and restorative by design, purifying and cleaning the sea while helping to build coastal habitats. Both cultivated and, crucially, diver-caught, they're among the most sustainable proteins to eat. However many, those grew up on the island, don't eat their eggs – an often-seen habit, I fear. All the more justification to champion these coral-pink tidbits, that are far too tasty to discard. Blended into a spread, they become pure indulgence: drizzle over the shellfish, mix into rice dishes or simply slather on toasted slices.

They can be a little pricey, however, so I have devised the following method to turn just one scallop into a stunning starter (or three into a satisfying main course) and, by blending their roe into smoky paprika butter and baking the scallops in the half-shells with small tomatoes and garlic, unused parts becomes a luxury.

That same ethos of transformation is at the heart of the movement, that introduced an award providing support to innovators with brand support, mentorship and access to a marketplace. Judged by a panel of respected food heroes, the prize is to be awarded at an forthcoming event. It's about backing concepts that will help the agricultural networks thrive, from soil to sea, and there's no better a more exciting place for this dialogue to start than here.

Shellfish Baked in Roe Butter with Small Tomatoes and Garlic

Serves six as a starter or 2 as a main

Six with eggs shellfish in the shell
Eighteen cherry tomatoes, cut in half
Six garlic cloves, smashed
Three fresh red chillies (such as jalapeño), split lengthwise, or 1 dash red pepper flakes, or to taste (if desired)
50g unsalted butter
One teaspoon paprika
Salt and pepper, to taste
Lemon slices, to accompany
A little sea asparagus, agretti or six tiny gherkin slices, to decorate (if using)

Clean the scallops, detaching the eggs from each and leaving the rest of the shellfish fixed to the half-shell (request the fishmonger to do this for you, if necessary). Place six cherry tomato halves in every half-shell with the equivalent of smashed garlic and one half a red chilli, if using.

Transfer the scallop roes in a container of a hand blender (I find it's the best tool for mixing small amounts), include the spread and spice, and blend until creamy. Distribute the butter between the shells, ensuring each shellfish is well coated in the butter.

Heat the grill until it is very hot, then put the shellfish under the heat for six to eight minutes, until blistered and sizzling. Present right away, topped with if desired samphire, agretti, a slice of pickle and/or a drizzle of the gherkin brine or some lemon.

Randy Gomez
Randy Gomez

A seasoned journalist with a passion for uncovering truth and delivering compelling stories that matter to readers everywhere.